

Taliban guards stand on the entrance of the Nationwide Museum of Afghanistan after it reopened beneath Taliban management in Kabul in December.
Mustafa Melih Ahishali / Anadolu Company by way of Getty Photographs
One of the crucial putting sights on the Nationwide Museum of Afghanistan today isn’t contained in the museum, however by its entrance gates.
Younger, armed Taliban guards shield the doorway, looking out guests earlier than they enter the museum grounds.
The final time the Taliban have been in energy, on the path of then-leader Mullah Muhammad Omar, they smashed historical statues and different objects on this museum that they deemed un-Islamic and idolatrous.
That was in 2001 — the identical 12 months the Taliban additionally blew up two historical, colossal Buddha statues carved right into a cliffside within the metropolis of Bamiyan. By the top of that 12 months, the Taliban have been toppled.
And so once they returned to energy a 12 months in the past, many cultural heritage advocates anxious concerning the destiny of the museum and its irreplaceable treasures.

Artifacts from Afghanistan’s Nationwide Museum on show at Musée Guimet in Paris in 2006. These objects vary in date from the first to third centuries, and have been recovered from Afghanistan’s Tillya Tepe, Ai Khanum and Begram archaeological websites. They embody a “Bactrian Aphrodite” figurine (high left), a 1st century gold coin (high proper), a 1st century crown (middle), jewellery and embellished glassware.
Thierry Ollivier / Musée Guimet / Getty Photographs
“The Nationwide Museum of Afghanistan was, as soon as upon a time, the best museum in Central Asia, and that isn’t an exaggeration,” says Laura Tedesco, a cultural heritage and preservation specialist with the State Division who has labored with Afghan museum workers over time.
She remembers visiting when the galleries have been filled with prehistoric collectible figurines, historical Buddhist artifacts and life-size human determine statues — all of it capturing the nation’s numerous mix of cultures over millennia.

Afghan building staff put a brand new ceiling in one of many rooms on the Nationwide Museum on Feb. 18, 2003, in Kabul. The museum, which was extensively broken throughout heavy combating within the Nineteen Nineties, was renovated with worldwide assist.
Paula Bronstein / Getty Photographs
“The artifacts on show have been beautiful and Louvre-worthy of their high quality,” says Tedesco. “The range of tradition evidenced in these artifacts is exclusive to Afghanistan as a result of it was this cultural crossroads, and armies and thinkers and religions and influencers crisscrossed [it].”
Modifications on the museum
After the Taliban seized management of the capital final August, the museum closed. Museum workers and others have been unsure the group would honor its pledge months earlier to guard the nation’s cultural heritage and forestall the looting of historical artifacts.
When the museum finally reopened in December, it was a hopeful signal to cultural heritage advocates that issues may be completely different this time beneath Taliban rule.
The museum used to attract an array of tourists, from international dignitaries to busloads of schoolchildren. Now, with Afghanistan’s economic system in ruins, few appear to come back by anymore. In a latest two-hour go to to the museum, NPR encountered no different guests.
A museum worker says issues are going advantageous, and with the arrival of the Taliban, “there was no impediment for our work. Every little thing goes as regular because it was earlier than.” NPR shouldn’t be naming museum staff for his or her safety.

Taliban fighter Mansoor Zulfiqar, left, visits the Nationwide Museum of Afghanistan, in Kabul on Dec. 6, 2021.
Petros Giannakouris / AP
In strolling via the museum, NPR noticed shows of centuries-old ceramic bowls glazed in vibrant greens and blues, and historical urns with Quranic verses meticulously etched into the perimeters.
There are hoards of cash, some so gold they nearly glow. One room options picket totems from a distant a part of Afghanistan, and outdated weapons embellished with intricate mother-of-pearl inlay.

Buddhist heads courting from the 2nd and third centuries have been seen on show throughout a latest go to to the Nationwide Museum of Afghanistan. They have been the one gadgets on show in a piece of the museum labeled “Buddhist Heritage of Afghanistan.”
Arezou Rezvani / NPR
A big check in English on the third flooring reads “Buddhist Heritage of Afghanistan.” However there are solely three small, plaster Buddhist heads on show, courting again to 2nd and third centuries.
A lot of the remaining is labeled modern, together with a marble espresso desk with jasper inlay, and the 12 months 2000 carved into it.
One other worker dismisses all of it as “children’ artwork.”

A person walks close to a colossal Buddha statue in Bamiyan, Afghanistan, in 1997. The Taliban destroyed the well-known Buddhas of Bamiyan in March 2001.
Jean-Claude Chapon / AFP by way of Getty Photographs
He factors to a tv. “We used to point out a movie concerning the Taliban’s destruction of the Bamiyan Buddhas on that TV,” he says — including that it has been unplugged since final August.
Ideology isn’t the one risk to Afghan cultural heritage
Because the Taliban superior towards Kabul final 12 months, archeologist Gil Stein watched with nice trepidation from afar. Because the director of the Chicago Heart for Cultural Heritage Preservation, he’d had conversations with museum workers over time about emergency plans, together with what to do in case the Taliban took over once more.

Varied heads from Buddhist statues excavated from Afghanistan’s Hadda archaeological website, courting again to 2nd and third centuries, are exhibited in Afghanistan’s Nationwide Museum in Kabul in 2012. Buddhism in Afghanistan is traced again some 2,000 years and began fading with the arrival of Islam within the seventh century.
Jawad Jalali / AFP by way of Getty Photographs
“One of many first issues that [museum staff] did was they took the entire early Buddhist artwork off show within the galleries, they usually put it into the storerooms,” says Stein. “The second factor is, they began to be very, very cautious of their public communications.”
To date, it is exhausting for consultants to know what to make of the Taliban’s pledge to guard cultural heritage. In additional distant elements of the nation, Stein and others fear concerning the safety of much less seen websites with out the means to take precautions to guard objects.
And beliefs is probably not the one risk. Looting of historical websites has brought on destruction for many years. And within the case of the huge historical Buddhist complicated at Mes Aynak, about 25 miles south of Kabul, it sits atop a copper deposit believed to be one of many largest on this planet.

Folks go to the Nationwide Museum of Afghanistan after it reopened beneath Taliban management in December. The museum had closed after the Taliban regained management of the nation final August.
Bilal Galer / Anadolu Company by way of Getty Photographs
This archaeological website was already in peril as a result of proposed Chinese language mining exercise that was agreed beneath a earlier Afghan administration. The mining stalled, however this week, the Taliban performing minister of mines and petroleum said officials are “working quickly” to revive and resume the venture. For a cash-strapped Taliban authorities, the lure of enterprise alternatives could overwhelm different concerns.
“One of many largest dangers to Afghan cultural heritage proper now shouldn’t be essentially the Taliban blowing up or smashing statues, however somewhat out of the necessity for financial growth, they merely usually are not going to care concerning the injury that may be completed,” says Stein. “It is an ideal storm of dangers.”
However he says there’s motive for hope that heritage may be protected beneath the Taliban.
“It’s attainable,” he says. “It could be a horrible mistake for the West to write down them off fully. There’s house to barter issues. I feel that is nearly all the time true in Afghanistan, however all of us must be very cautious on it as a result of, in so many domains, the Taliban have been violating their guarantees.”
Underneath the Taliban, thus far, it appears the museum is being spared the worst from its previous. However it’s additionally not clear that it may possibly return to what it as soon as was anytime quickly.
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Guests soak up a show at Afghanistan’s Nationwide Museum quickly after it reopened in December.
Ahmad Sahel Arman / AFP by way of Getty Photographs